The National Park Service and National Forest Service are attempting to pass a policy that would render fixed anchors in the wilderness for outdoor climbing illegal, according to the Climbing Magazine. If anchors and bolts are reclassified as “installations” — which are explicitly banned from wilderness areas under the 1964 Wilderness Act — climbers would be restricted from participating in their cherished sport.
“We’re climbers — we want to climb,” said William Hibbard, Pepperdine Climbing Club’s treasurer and gear and safety officer. “We just want to engage in the activity that we love.”
Outdoor climbing depends on bolts and anchors, meaning their reclassification as “installations” could eliminate the activity as a whole. Each bolt and anchor would have to be approved on a subjective case-by-case basis — guilty until proven innocent — and would be subject to removal, according to Climbing Magazine.
In response, Pepperdine Climbing Club has taken the initiative to speak out against this detrimental proposal.
Climbing Club President Elijah Ettedgui said the potential policy will directly and negatively affect climbers in Malibu.
“If the government redefines the anchors as ‘installations,’ Pepperdine Climbing Club will no longer be able to do our outdoor climbs in Malibu Creek,” Ettedgui said. “We would be limited to bouldering — which can be very dangerous outdoors.”
Responding to “Bolt Ban” Advocates
Though supporters of the “Bolt Ban” claim this restriction will better preserve the environment, Ettedgui and Hibbard said climbers are incredibly conscious about respecting the environment as their sport revolves around the outdoors.
“This policy will severely limit country access to climbers who happen to be some of the best stewards of the overall wilderness area,” Hibbard said. “We maintain it because we want to use it and continue using it for a very long time.”
Ettedgui and Hibbard said almost all climbers follow the “Leave No Trace” principles, which are a framework of guidelines to practice general outdoor ethics.
Hibbard said bolting practices are already largely managed by local authorities.
“Malibu Creek climbing is regulated by central authorities like the Mountains Recreation and Conservation Authority,” Hibbard said. “They regulate bolting and implement rules such as not allowing climbing within a certain period after it rains for safety and for maintaining the rock.”
In other words, there is already management and regulation regarding climbs to both protect the environment and allow individuals to enjoy and utilize the outdoors. The overwhelming majority of climbers are very mindful about respecting and protecting their surroundings, Hibbard said.
Threatening the entirety of the sport, therefore, seems like a drastic and unreasonable act in the opinions of these climbers.
When the club’s previous president reached out to the group about the “Bolt Ban,” Ettedgui said he encouraged all members to sign a petition against the restrictive proposal. Additionally, Hibbard said he wrote to several California representatives, encouraging them to fight against the potential policy.
Climbing Background
Ettedgui said he has been a climber for nearly seven years. He said he highly values climbing because it is both enriching and serves as an emotional outlet. Hibbard said he also views climbing in this positive light.
“I got into climbing after I got into a car accident freshman year,” Hibbard said. “I was driving down through San Francisco and got T-boned pretty badly. I needed an activity to get me outside, and my friends at the time were always going climbing. So, they let me tag along with them, and I got into it and decided to stick with it.”
Overall, the climbers said this activity allows individuals to truly interact with nature, challenge themselves and connect with other climbers.
Climbing itself has been around since the beginning of time, and competition climbing just made its debut at the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo, Japan, according to NBC Chicago News. As this sport has been increasing in popularity, the “Bolt Ban” is upsetting countless passionate climbers.
Hope for Passionate Climbers
Ettedgui said this policy would be extremely challenging to implement, generating hope for those opposing it.
“This is not an impending doom,” Ettedgui said. “There’s a lot of people working against this, and even if it did pass, it would be unbelievably unrealistic and hard to actually get rid of all bolted climbs. There are thousands and thousands of climbs around the U.S., so the scope of what they are trying to do is unrealistic.”
Still, Ettedgui said, if the “Bolt Ban” does pass, the Pepperdine Climbing Club would support further petitioning or even a stand-in to preserve their beloved sport.
Hibbard said the “Bolt Ban” sets a precedent for restricting activities that Americans should have every right to practice.
“Public areas should be free for the public to use,” Hibbard said. “Restricting certain activities opens the door for many other restrictions. I have faith that it’s going to get voted down. But, I am concerned about the precedent that this does set.”
The Protecting America’s Rock Climb Act (PARC) is a bill countering the “Bolt Ban.” The PARC would ensure sustainable access to rock climbing, recognizing it as a legitimate activity in wilderness areas.
Though bolts and anchors would still be regulated under this bill, the NPS and NFS would be required to permit their usage, implementation and maintenance. Climbers are promoting this bill as an attack on the “Bolt Ban,” according to the Climbing Magazine.
“If the Bolt Ban passes, it is a threat to all wilderness access for all people who engage in all types of activities,” Hibbard said. “So, if anybody in the Pepperdine community is passionate about the outdoors, I’d encourage them to write to their representatives. I’d encourage them to get active in politics and read up on stuff that’s happening because it does matter, and it does affect you.”
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Contact Madeline Del Rio via email: madeline.delrio@pepperdine.edu
