MARY WISNIEWSKI
Assistant Living Editor
Although there are no gondolas or gelaterias in Malibu as of yet, there is an abundance of Italian restaurants that can make almost anyone feel like they have stepped out of a small beach town and into Europe, at least for a couple of hours. In ways, it is like going to see the Eiffel Tower in Las Vegas — not the same as being in Paris, but certainly better than nothing, even if people disparage you for enjoying it.
For one of the most delicious and still casual Italian eateries, try Tra di Noi for either lunch or dinner. The name translates to ‘among us’ and could not be more applicable.
Known for its friendly staff and delicious food, one cannot go wrong at this restaurant, adjacent to Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf. Plus, there is free parking in the Malibu Country Mart — a rare feat for Malibu dining.
What sets Tra di Noi apart from other restaurants is its casual feel with excellent fare, but, most importantly, its amusing waiters. Friendly banter is to be expected from the staff and makes any meal more enjoyable.
To begin your meal at Tra di Noi, try the carpaccio. Make sure to ask for a side of lemons to make an already good appetizer even better.
There is also a versatile selection of wines offered that range from moderately priced to the very expensive.
The main course prices are reasonable for an Italian restaurant in Malibu, most courses ranging from $12 to $20.
Not surprisingly, some of the best fare is the pasta. The Spaghetti Bolognese is an excellent choice, proving that there is an art to cooking pasta after all. Other fare offered includes a wide selection of salads, pizza, seafood and meat.
The view of Malibu is nothing to get excited about from Tra di Noi unless you are the type of person who enjoys watching a children’s playground.
However, it is a great spot for people watching if your company is lacking in the art of conversation. And, regardless, the ambiance of the restaurant more than makes up for the less than appealing view one will encounter.
Inside is a completely different feel. The warm lighting, muted orange walls, wooden chairs, yellow tablecloths and framed artwork on the wall contribute to its casual charm. In ways, the interior almost make it seem as if one is at home instead of at a restaurant.
Be ready to wait on the weekends and weekdays at Tra di Noi. Seating is not plentiful, and it is a favorite of locals and can make waiting for Godot seem like nothing.
Outside is a perfect place to have a meal with a date. It is cozy, and some days, a musician performs Italian tunes. So, even if it is the worst date, let the music drone him or her out. The weather is nothing to worry about either. If it is sunny outside, large umbrellas will block the rays, and at night, heated lamps are nearby to stop any kind of chill.
If time is an issue, call for carryout. You do not even have to enter the restaurant because of the convenient hole-in-wall pick-up called Tra di Noi Express. Still, call ahead as even this carry-out service can bring in a line.
Tra di Noi is worth a trip and the time even if just for the waiters and the live music alone.
11-09-2006