JULIS NAVARRO
Staff Writer
Exactly as its name implies, Twist takes California-eclectic to a whole new level. This quiet and stylish restaurant sits unobtrusively in the famed Hollywood Renaissance Hotel, just as though is has no need to compete with the obnoxious attractions that surround it. Holographic photographs and twisted metal sculptures line the walkway that lead to Twist’s entrance. Inside, the dimmed lighting is appropriately balanced — not too intimate but not too glaring. Notes of jazz music drift through the air, changing moods from slow and sensual to lively and energetic. With sleek tables and comfortable seats, guests are immediately at home in this modern setting.
The Asian-fusion theme of Twist’s menu is subtle and delightful. For starters, steamed mussels are succulently prepared in a red curry coconut sauce with grilled crostini topped with cilantro pesto. The Taco-shimi Crisps, a signature Twist appetizer, is a delicious creation made with seared ahi atop a mixture of creamy avocado and shiitake mushrooms on a flat tortilla crisp. Garnished with strips of dried seaweed, kaiware sprouts, and a tangy ponzu sauce— this starter hints at Japanese cuisine with a distinct California flair. On top of it all, lucky guests may be served a special treat, a thick cream of tomato soup served in a thin shot glass, to amuse the mouth. Flat bread crusted with sesame seeds and a zesty pesto dressing is also served.
Although Twist does have its unique qualities, such as its distinct Asian fusion theme reiterated throughout its décor and menu, it also has its weaknesses. As far as entrees go, the Quartet of Land and Sea is surprisingly unfabulous. This chef’s selection is composed of four small dishes, each with bland and uninspiring taste. A pan-fried tuna served a top lettuce and baby spinach with pesto oil dressing, a portion of duck with spinach on a tangy sauce, salty grilled salmon with steamed asparagus and baked potato, and an orange-flavored chicken with snap peas and rice noodles. It is enticing and alluring, but a letdown of flavor. On the other hand, the shrimp-crusted sea bass with creamy garlic lobster sauce is savory and satisfying.
The Twist dinner menu also includes a limited sushi roll selection, bowing again to the Japanese art of cuisine. Dabbling in miso glazes, shiitake mushrooms and avocado, Twist does a fair job of intertwining several unique tastes into a seamless menu. After dinner, guests can indulge in either a warm chocolate cake topped with vanilla gelato or Twist’s very own homemade doughnuts dusted with cinnamon sugar, berry compote, and blood orange whipped cream. The extensive wine list is enough to satiate anyone’s tastes, with its wide range of selection.
Artsy chandeliers composed of thin sheets of grey metal hang from the ceiling, balancing the weight of the interior. Rich burgundy curtains hang luxuriously from the vast windows, which offer a view of bustling Hollywood Boulevard. White teardrop-shaped light fixtures are scattered above. Mid-century paintings are hung casually on the walls of the restaurant, while art pieces of thick brown bamboo shoots tangled with sheer nets sit on shelves. It is a glorious mess of confusing elements to delight guests. Frosted candles and bright green bamboo centerpieces decorate the white-clothed tables throughout the restaurant.
While prices are what you would expect of a fine restaurant, the atmosphere is not. Although Twist maintains its stylish and classy personality, the restaurant is usually low-key and not very busy. Diners can easily slip in and out without fearing crowded waitlists and loud guests. The reason for this is due to Twist’s location— despite being housed in the luxurious Renaissance hotel, most in-house guests venture outside for fine dining, leaving this gem of a restaurant open for everyone else curious enough to venture inside. So, for those with a taste for California-eclectic, Twist has everything and more.
01-31-2008