When students are not in class, many of them are surfing.
Sophomore JT Longoria said surfing in Malibu is very relaxing compared to where he normally surfs in the Bay Area.
“It’s like a way to ease your mind,” Longoria said.
Malibu’s many beaches and great weather have people surfing year-round and at all times of the day. Longoria can be found at Zuma Beach most Wednesday mornings surfing with his friends, he said.
Broad Beach is another popular beach for surfers of all ages and skill levels. Longoria, as well as many other Pepperdine students, utilize the Surfline app to check out the waves before going to the beach, he said.
Longoria said he enjoys the adrenaline rush and thrill of surfing.
“I think it’s somewhat humbling to know that Mother Nature could just like throw you around and toss you,” Longoria said.
Longoria said the biggest wave he has ever surfed was at Steamer Lane in Santa Cruz, Calif., during a hurricane last year.
“It said that it [the size of the waves] was 10-15 on Surfline, but I swear it was probably like 20-foot waves out there,” Longoria said.
Longoria said he first discovered his passion for surfing three years ago in Hawaiʻi. Then he returned home, and after wake surfing on a lake for two weeks, he knew he had to start surfing more regularly.
“I eventually just went out to the Bay to Pacifica for my first time, and that was it,” Longoria said.
Longoria urges everyone to try surfing, he said.
“Getting out in the water is amazing, and surfing’s just fun,” Longoria said.
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Contact Kate Elise Norris via email: Kate.norris@pepperdine.edu